Un voyage d’exception… 

Pour la fin de mon voyage, je voulais aller dans un lieu exceptionnel, dont je me souviendrais longtemps, un lieu surprenant, unique.

J’avais entendu parler de ces îles perdues au large de l’Equateur, et à la faune hors du commun, encore relativement préservées du tourisme de masse par des prix prohibitifs… Une faune et flore remarquables en raison des nombreuses espèces endémiques uniques au monde qui s’y trouvent. Leur disparition aux Galapagos équivaudrait à celle de l’espèce, car elle ne sont présentes nulle part ailleurs. D’où l’importance, bien identifiée, de préserver cet écrin de nature.

Les îles sont célèbres également en raison des recherches qui y ont été menées par le naturaliste anglais Charles Darwin. Il y a mis au point ses théories de l’évolution et de la sélection naturelle.

C’est donc dans cette destination extraordinaire que je décidais de terminer mon périple en beauté.

 

… ça se paye!

Les Galapagos sont tournées vers le tourisme, principale source de revenu sur les îles: nombreux hôtels, restaurants, agences touristiques proposant des tours et excursions… mais tout se monnaye très cher! Les croisières sont hors de prix, et même si l’on peut visiter les 3 principales îles (San Cristobal, Santa Cruz et Isabela) en solo sans passer par une croisière, il faut partir avec un portefeuille bien garni pour en profiter pleinement.

Avant même d’arriver sur place, il faut s’acquitter de 20 dollars pour obtenir la carte de transit permettant d’arriver aux Galapagos, puis encore 100 dollars pour entrer dans le parc national des Galapagos. Les déplacements entre les îles se font principalement en bateau (en pas moins de 2h de bateau pourtant rapide!) et restent assez onéreux (25 dollars par trajet). Pour les excursions à la journée et les plongées, il faut compter au moins 150 dollars… Bref tout coûte cher!

 

La nature plein les yeux!

Mais une fois sur place, on oublie vite le prix à payer car on en prend plein les yeux! On est surpris par cette nature à l’état brut: de la roche volcanique noire et accidentée, encore « jeune » à l’échelle géologique, sur laquelle ne pousse que cactus et broussailles, des plages de sable blanc ultra fin, des cratères de volcan aux aspects lunaires, une mer translucide aux dégradés de bleu et turquoise, de la mangrove verdoyante qui prend racine dans les eaux transparentes…

Des animaux qui se déplacent en toute liberté sur l’île: tortues terrestres géantes sur les chemins, lions de mers qui se prélassent sur les plages, manchots qui nagent dans les ports, iguanes marins qui prennent un bain de soleil sur les rochers, boobies aux pattes bleues ou rouges qui dansent pour leur dulcinées sur les tunnels de lave, pinsons qui sautillent, frégates qui planent dans les airs, lézards qui se faufilent le long du chemin…

Et bien sûr dans les eaux fraîches environnantes que l’on découvre en snorkeling ou en plongeant: des Requins White tip et Black tips, des Requins Marteaux, des Mola Molas, des Raies de toutes sortes, des Raies Mantas, des Tortues de Mer à gogo, des Dauphins, des Baleines…

Il y a véritablement de quoi être émerveillé! Sans parler du soleil et du bon air marin dont on profite pleinement.

 

En quelques mots, une destination presque magique qu’il est précieux de découvrir.

 

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Traversé par la cordillère des Andes, l’Equateur est LE pays volcanique par excellence, on y dénombre plus d’une centaine de volcans, dont plus d’une dizaine dépasse les 5000m d’altitude (les plus connus: le Chimborazo, le Cayambe, le Cotopaxi…).

Durant mon séjour, j’ai eu la chance d’en approcher certains, pour mon plus grand plaisir, car ils offrent tous de superbes paysages avec leurs lacs ou sommets enneigés… en voici quelques exemples.

 

Dans le bleu du lac Quilotoa

Depuis Latacunga, une paire d’heures en bus ou en taxi permettront d’arriver à ce beau lac aux dégradés de bleu logé dans le cratère d’un volcan. On peut en faire le tour en plusieurs heures, ou bien, descendre au pied du lac pour toucher du bout des doigts l’eau fraîche avant de s’attaquer à la difficile remontée qui est relativement courte (max. 1h) mais très pentue!

La vue depuis le bord du cratère est vraiment superbe, et vaut vraiment le détour, surtout si le temps est de la partie. A ne pas rater en chemin pour Quito!

 

Superbe volcan Cotopaxi

J’ai décidé de faire cette excursion depuis Quito. Départ tôt le matin, en bus, en direction du sud : on m’arrête au bord de la route, au milieu de nulle part, sur la panaméricaine… et de là je cherche une camionnette pour m’amener dans le parc entourant le volcan Cotopaxi. Pas facile de trouver le bon guide, mais je finis par trouver sur celui qui va me conduire avec 3 autres compagnons de route pendant plusieurs heures jusqu’à une lagune située au pied du volcan Cotopaxi, puis jusqu’au point de départ de la randonnée qui mène au refuge Cotopaxi. Un trek d’environ 45 minutes, mais rude je dois dire, en raison de la forte pente, de la nature du sol (roche volcanique effritée en une sorte de sable dans lequel on s’enfonce à chaque pas…) et des conditions climatiques (enfin, seulement, si comme moi vous avez l’ascension avec un vent neigeux effroyable qui vous fouette le visage et vous glace!).

J’ai quand même eu la chance que la vue se dégage un peu lors de la descente afin d’admirer le paysage, le volcan et son sommet enneigé qui culmine à 5897m. Magnifique !

 

Belle promenade autour de la laguna Cuicocha

Dans le parc Cotacachi, situé à environ 1h30 en bus puis taxi d’Otovalo, se trouve la belle lagune de Cuicocha, située dans le cratère d’un volcan. On peut en faire le tour par un joli sentier assez facile, mais il faut néanmoins pour cela plusieurs heures. A défaut, on peut facilement, faire une partie du chemin pour changer de point de vue sur le cratère ou les petits îlots situés au milieu du lac, et revenir sur ses pas en fonction du temps dont on dispose. Une balade que je recommande chaudement pour profiter de la flore locale très riche et de la vue magnifique !

 

TeleferiQo puis promenade jusqu’au Rucu Pinchincha

Il s’agit de la balade du dimanche des habitants de Quito: prendre le téléphérique jusqu’à un point de vue situé à 4050m d’altitude permettant d’admirer Quito et les volcans alentours.

A partir du mirador, les plus courageux tenteront de rejoindre le sommet du volcan Rucu Pichincha (4698m d’altitude). Une bonne randonnée sportive d’environ 3h (l’aller) est cependant nécessaire pour l’atteindre, alors mieux vaut partir tôt, et ce d’autant plus que le temps est très changeant dans la région et se couvre souvent en fin d’après-midi. La balade est belle: superbe vue, végétation variée avec beaucoup de fleurs.

 

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function bwg_gallery_box_1(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_1" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_1" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_1" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_1=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_1" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=1&gallery_id=79&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_1=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '1', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_1() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_1").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_1(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_1(); });

 

#bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_2 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_2 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_2 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_2 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2:hover .bwg_title_spun1_2 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_title_spun2_2 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .displaying-num_2 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .displaying-num_2 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .paging-input_2 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_back_2 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 #spider_popup_overlay_2 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_2 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_2 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_gal_title_2 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_2(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_2" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_2" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_2" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_2=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_2" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=2&gallery_id=81&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_2=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '2', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_2() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_2").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_2(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_2(); });

 

#bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_3 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_3 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_3 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_3 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3:hover .bwg_title_spun1_3 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_title_spun2_3 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .displaying-num_3 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .displaying-num_3 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .paging-input_3 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_back_3 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 #spider_popup_overlay_3 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_3 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_3 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_gal_title_3 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_3(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_3=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=3&gallery_id=75&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_3=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '3', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_3() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_3").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_3(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_3(); });

 

#bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_4 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_4 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_4 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_4 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4:hover .bwg_title_spun1_4 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_title_spun2_4 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .displaying-num_4 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .displaying-num_4 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .paging-input_4 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_back_4 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 #spider_popup_overlay_4 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_4 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_4 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_gal_title_4 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_4(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_4=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=4&gallery_id=82&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_4=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '4', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_4() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_4").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_4(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_4(); });

 

A environ 2h en bus de Quito, se trouve la petite ville de Mindo, nichée au cœur de collines verdoyantes, tout près de la réserve de Mindo-Nambillo à la faune et à  la flore très riches.

On y vient pour faire des sports aquatiques (tubbing, canyoning), pour randonner, faire de la zipline au-dessus de la canopée, apprendre comment on fait le chocolat, visiter une ferme aux papillons…. Les activités ne manquent pas!

J’optais pour la dernière option, l’occasion de revoir le magnifique papillon bleu, le célèbre Morpho, que j’avais tant apprécié en Amazonie! Quasiment, impossible à photographier car il ne se pose jamais, mais tellement éblouissant! Sans parler des centaines d’autres papillons (un peu à tous les stades, de la chenille aux papillons) que nous avons pu admirer! Un beau spectacle.

 

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Située à 1h30 en bus de Quito, la petite ville d’Otovalo est agréable et paisible… Enfin, surtout en semaine, car le samedi, c’est jour de marché et la ville se métamorphose complètement : les rues et les places sont envahies de stands de maroquinerie, bijoux, artisanat divers, attrape-rêves, ponchos, bonnets, chaussettes, pull en laine d’alpaca, chapeaux, … Autant dire qu’il y a du choix et de la concurrence, alors il ne faut pas hésiter à négocier un peu.

Très touristique le marché du samedi attire de nombreux visiteurs venus faire des achats souvenirs mais aussi voir le fameux marché aux animaux qui se tient un peu plus loin, à l’écart du centre-ville. Ici, on vend et achète poulets, poussins, canards, vaches, cochons, cuys (cochons d’inde, met de choix)… et même des chiens (de compagnie!). Un spectacle très divertissant et folklorique !

 

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La jungle, ça se mérite!

Il vous faudra tout d’abord prendre le bus de nuit jusqu’à la ville de Lago Agrio, puis un autre bus pour 2 bonnes heures de route, avant de monter dans un bateau à moteur pour une autre paire d’heures, avant d’arriver enfin à votre point de chute final : un lodge au cœur de la jungle dans la réserve de Cuyabeno.

La vie sauvage…

Un sentiment de bout du monde vous envahit quand depuis le mirador de votre lodge vous ne voyez à perte de vue que la forêt autour de vous !

Pendant 4 jours, vous allez l’explorer cette forêt à la fois inhospitalière et pas si peu accueillante non plus. Certes, elle est peuplée de petites et grosses bêtes qui ne sont pas à prendre à la légère… alors la règle d’or est de ne pas mettre les pieds et les mains n’importe où…! Tarentules, serpents (notamment des anacondas impressionnants), grenouilles, oiseaux, dauphins d’eau douce, caïmans, singes de différentes espèces, cochons sauvages, fourmis géantes, papillons (notamment le superbe Morpho bleu turquoise)… autant d’espèces que l’on peut voir lors des différentes promenades en pirogue, lors des marches de jour ou de nuit que l’on effectue chaque jour.

On apprécie les bottes en caoutchouc et le poncho de pluie pour se déplacer dans la jungle et ses nombreuses mares, et l’on n’oublie pas son anti-moustique pour les balades de nuit. (J’ai servi d’amuse-gueule à une dizaine de moustiques qui s’en sont donnés à cœur-joie à travers mon legging. Eux aussi, ils aiment les européennes! 😉 )

 

Plein les yeux!

On admire le lever ou le coucher du soleil sur la lagune, et les chanceux apercevront parfois un superbe arc en ciel sur la lagune le temps d’une baignade au crépuscule. On y pense à deux fois avant de jeter à l’eau (Et si j’étais croquée par un piranha ou servais de déjeuner à un caïman ou étais électrocutée par une anguille électrique… toutes ces espèces effrayantes qui se trouvent dans la rivière?) . Mais le discours rassurant de notre guide et le fait de se dire qu’on aura probablement qu’une fois dans sa vie la chance de se baigner dans un tel lieu, nous incite à nous immerger sans trop penser au fait qu’on ne voit pas le fond… L’eau est fraîche et le cadre superbe, c’est agréable.

La nuit venue, blotti dans le lit douillet d’une cabane de bois, protégé par une moustiquaire de princesse façon baldaquin, on ferme les yeux pour mieux écouter les bruits inconnus et intrigants de la jungle. On se réveille au petit jour avec ces mêmes bruits d’une nature qui s’éveille et on reste à l’écoute de cette nature à l’état brut.

 

Comprendre la vie locale

La visite d’une communauté locale permet de mieux comprendre comment les populations natives vivent dans cette jungle. Avant il leur était permis de chasser et pêcher, mais depuis que le parc a été déclaré réserve naturelle, la chasse est interdite et la pêche très limitée à certaines zones de vie. Une jeune femme nous montre comment elle récolte le yucca (manioc) et le râpe pour en faire une galette qui sera agrémentée de légumes par exemple.

Nous jouons au foot avec les enfants, avant de rencontrer le chaman (guérisseur) de la communauté. Il nous explique comme il soigne par les plantes et grâce à l’Ayahuasca (il nous montre la liane dont est issu la substance servant au rituel de l’ayahusca). Il nous raconte aussi comment il a déjà soigné certains touristes venus le voir après avoir essayé d’autres médecines traditionnelles restées inefficaces, et comment l’ayahuasca lui a permis de guérir ces personnes. Très intéressant, que l’on croit ou non en ce type de médecine…

 

Au final, une belle expérience, une immersion complète dans ce lieu magique dont la visite est définitivement à mettre sur sa bucket list.

 

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ENCORE une ville coloniale classée au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco pour les belles batisses de son centre historique?

Eh bien oui… mais je dois dire qu’on ne s’en lasse pas, d’autant qu’Arequipa est à une altitude assez basse (2335m) en comparaison avec Cusco ou le lac Titicaca, et que par conséquent, il y fait beau et chaud alors même que plusieurs volcans aux sommets enneigés sont à proximité et offrent une belle vue. Animée, la ville compte de nombreux cafés et restaurants, il y fait bon rester quelques jours.

On y visite de nombreuses églises, dont celle de la Compañia, à la superbe façade. Le Couvent Santa Catalina, impressionnant par sa taille et sa belle architecture coloniale en tuf de lave mérite d’être visité. Créé en 1570, il accueillait des centaines de sœurs ainsi que leur servantes et constituait une véritable ville dans la ville (habitations personnelles avec cuisine, potagers, un lavoir…). La visite guidée que l’on en fait est très intéressante et la pinacothèque est fournie.

Côté musées, il ne faut pas manquer le Museo Santuario Andino, où se trouve la momie – très bien conservée dans une chambre froide transparente – de Juanita, une jeune fille donnée en offrande (= tuée et enterrée au sommet de « l’Apu », une montagne sacrée, lors de la Capac Cocha, une cérémonie inca) par les Incas. Impressionnant!

 

Le Canyon del Colca

Arequipa, c’est aussi bien souvent le point de départ pour une excursion à la journée ou de plusieurs jour au Canyon del Colca, à 180km, au nord de la ville. On s’arrête en chemin pour voir le paysage formé par les volcans de la région, ou pour admirer la petite église de la ville de Maca.

D’une profondeur de 3400m, le canyon est immense. Outre la belle vue qu’il offre, le canyon est également connu pour son Mirador Cruz del Condor, où des dizaines de Condors volent très souvent, profitant des courants d’air chaud ascendants de la vallée. Un magnifique spectacle que d’observer ces majestueux oiseaux, pouvant atteindre plus de 3 mètres d’envergure, planer au-dessus de nos têtes!

D’autant, que cet oiseau revêt une valeur symbolique forte dans la culture Inca, représentant le ciel et le divin. L’oiseau figure sur l’emblème de nombreux pays d’Amérique du Sud, et une chanson lui est même dédié. (Vous connaissez la chanson El Condor Pasa?)

A ne pas rater, même si l’entrée au parc naturel est assez cher. (70 soles, soit environ 18€)

 

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Cusco et la Vallée Sacrée: à ne pas manquer

 

Après le Lac Titicaca, direction la Vallée Sacrée des Incas, plus au nord, dans les terres, et toujours en altitude!

Mondialement connue pour son célèbre Machu Picchu, la Vallée Sacrée réserve d’autres très belles surprises, à commencer par la jolie ville de Cusco, classée au Patrimoine Mondial de l’Unesco, mais aussi d’autres beaux sites Incas (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray… pour n’en citer que quelques uns), les salins incroyables de Maras… Voici un aperçu rapide de ce qui vous y attendra.

Cusco… Difficile d’en partir!

Dès mon arrivée à Cusco, je suis surprise par l’ambiance de fête qu’il y règne. Et pour cause, nous sommes en pleine préparation des festivités de l’Inti Raymi, une célébration d’origine Inca dédiée au soleil, qui a lieu le 24 juin de chaque année pour fêter de solstice d’été et demander au dieu soleil de longs jours à nouveau. Au programme: des danses, de la musique, des costumes traditionnels sur la Plaza des Armas, la place principale de Cusco. Il est agréable de se promener sur cette place, et plus généralement dans la ville. Le centre historique est très bien préservé: les enseignes des boutiques, agences de tourisme et même des fast food s’intègrent parfaitement (c’est à dire discrètement!) dans l’architecture pour laisser presque intactes les belles façades coloniales aux balcons de bois sculptés. Les petites rues sont charmantes et l’on y voit encore parfois les restes des murs bâtis par les incas avec d’énormes pierres.  Coup de cœur pour le quartier de San Blas: perché sur la colline, il offre un beau panorama sur la ville et son ambiance un poil bobo est sympathique…

Bref, je me suis vite rendue compte que l’on sait quand on arrive à Cusco mais pas quand on repart…  Outre le fait qu’il s’agit d’un très bon point de départ pour visiter toute la vallée via des excursions à la journée, Cusco constitue un lieu de détente idéal pour faire une pause dans son voyage. Tout y est: soleil, bons restaurants et cafés, marché animé, bars sympathiques (vive le Pisco Sour!), lieux pour aller danser et faire la fête, cinéma pas cher (à 6 soles la séance, soit 1.5€, ça vaut le coup d’aller travailler son espagnol devant un bon film avec des popcorn que l’on peut trouver à chaque coin de rue.), massages, stand de rue (miam les brochettes de poulet grillé!)…

Du point de vue culturel aussi la ville n’est pas en reste avec de nombreux musées et sites culturels ou Incas à visiter: le couvent de Santo Domingo y templo del Sol Qorikancha (couvent espagnol construit sur les vestiges d’un temple Inca) , le site inca de Saqsaywaman (sanctuaire religieux Inca), le Museo de Arte Precolombino (petit mais gratuit, avec de belles pièces, notamment de beaux pectoraux en coquillages…), démonstration de danses folkloriques…

Définitivement, une belle étape à la fois culturelle et plaisir, et qui a constitué un bon premier contact avec le Pérou. 🙂

 

La Vallée Sacrée

Plusieurs sites Incas à ne pas manquer:

• Au nord ouest de Cusco, se trouve la jolie ville d’Ollantaytambo. La ville est encaissée entre deux collines sur lesquelles se trouvent 2 beaux sites Incas qui valent le détour. Perchée sur la colline aménagée en terrasses, la forteresse avec ses ruines de maisons et temples, offre depuis son plus haut point une belle vue sur la ville, les collines et le temple de Pinkuylluna situé sur la colline opposée. La ville en elle-même est un quadrillage de petites rues charmantes où il fait bon se promener.
• Pisac est autre site Inca à proximité de Cusco. On y voit les ruines de maisons et de temples Incas, et surtout de belles terrasses destinées à l’agriculture. Le marché de Pisac est également réputé pour son artisanat.
• Moray, un endroit surprenant. Il ne s’agit pas de simples terrasses comme l’on en voit dans la plupart des sites Incas, mais d’un centre de recherche agronomique en quelques sortes. De façon très ingénieuse, les Incas avaient imaginé profiter d’une dépression topographique (une sorte de cirque) naturellement présente dans cette région, très probablement formée par une météorite, pour y construire des terrasses concentriques dédiées à l’agriculture. Chaque étage permettait de planter des cultures différentes du fait du micro-climat créé par cette disposition particulière des champs, avec des écarts de température pouvant aller jusqu’à 5 degrés entre les étages les plus hauts et les plus bas. Ainsi, malgré l’altitude, on pouvait trouver à l’époque des plantes poussant habituellement dans la jungle sur le site de Moray. Incroyablement ingénieux !

Les Salineras de Maras

Quoi de plus incroyable que de trouver en plein milieu des terres des salins perchés sur une colline, sous forme de bassins (plus de 3900!) et en terrasse! L’eau salée circule via des rigoles qui alimentent les bassins en cascade qui sont ensuite asséchés pour collecter le sel (vendu sous forme de sel de cuisine, de bain ou de fleur de sel). Un dégradé de couleurs et un paysage absolument magnifique!

Chinchero

Une petite ville d’où la vue sur les montagnes environnantes est superbe. On y voit là encore des terrasses Incas… ou bien l’on s’y arrête pour en savoir plus sur le travail des tisserands et du travail de la laine.

 

Une Vallée Sacrée qui mérite d’être explorée (même si, oui, je sais, on est pressé d’aller au Machu Picchu!)

 

#bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_10 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_10 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_10 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_10 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10:hover .bwg_title_spun1_10 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_title_spun2_10 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .displaying-num_10 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .displaying-num_10 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .paging-input_10 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_back_10 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 #spider_popup_overlay_10 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_10 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_10 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_gal_title_10 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_10(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_10" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_10" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_10" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_10=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_10" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=10&gallery_id=67&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_10=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '10', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_10() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_10").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_10(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_10(); });

#bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_11 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_11 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_11 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_11 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11:hover .bwg_title_spun1_11 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_title_spun2_11 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .displaying-num_11 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .displaying-num_11 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .paging-input_11 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_back_11 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 #spider_popup_overlay_11 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_11 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_11 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_gal_title_11 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_11(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_11" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_11" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_11" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_11=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_11" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=11&gallery_id=65&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_11=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '11', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_11() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_11").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_11(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_11(); });

#bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_12 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_12 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_12 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_12 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12:hover .bwg_title_spun1_12 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_title_spun2_12 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .displaying-num_12 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .displaying-num_12 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .paging-input_12 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_back_12 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 #spider_popup_overlay_12 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_12 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_12 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_gal_title_12 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_12(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_12" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_12" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_12" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_12=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_12" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=12&gallery_id=66&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_12=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '12', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_12() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_12").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_12(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_12(); });

#bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_13 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_13 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_13:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_13 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_13 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumb_13 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_13:hover .bwg_title_spun1_13 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_title_spun2_13 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .tablenav-pages_13 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .displaying-num_13 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .displaying-num_13 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .paging-input_13 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .tablenav-pages_13 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .tablenav-pages_13 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .tablenav-pages_13 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .tablenav-pages_13 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_back_13 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 #spider_popup_overlay_13 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_13 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_13 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_13 #bwg_container2_13 .bwg_gal_title_13 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_13(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_13" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_13" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_13" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_13=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_13" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=13&gallery_id=64&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_13=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '13', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_13() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_13").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_13(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_13(); });

#bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_14 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_14 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_14:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_14 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_14 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumb_14 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_14:hover .bwg_title_spun1_14 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_title_spun2_14 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .tablenav-pages_14 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .displaying-num_14 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .displaying-num_14 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .paging-input_14 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .tablenav-pages_14 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .tablenav-pages_14 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .tablenav-pages_14 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .tablenav-pages_14 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_back_14 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 #spider_popup_overlay_14 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_14 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_14 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_14 #bwg_container2_14 .bwg_gal_title_14 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_14(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_14" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_14" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_14" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_14=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_14" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=14&gallery_id=63&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_14=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '14', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_14() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_14").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_14(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_14(); });

#bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_15 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_15 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_15:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_15 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_15 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumb_15 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_15:hover .bwg_title_spun1_15 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_title_spun2_15 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .tablenav-pages_15 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .displaying-num_15 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .displaying-num_15 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .paging-input_15 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .tablenav-pages_15 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .tablenav-pages_15 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .tablenav-pages_15 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .tablenav-pages_15 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_back_15 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 #spider_popup_overlay_15 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_15 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_15 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_15 #bwg_container2_15 .bwg_gal_title_15 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

function bwg_gallery_box_15(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_15" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_15" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_15" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_15=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_15" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=15&gallery_id=70&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_15=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '15', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_15() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_15").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_15(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_15(); });

 

 

 

Un peu plus loin, sur le lac Titicaca, du côté Péruvien cette fois, se trouvent les îles flottantes d’Uros et l’île de Taquile…

Les îles flottantes d’Uros.

Elles sont surprenantes! Il s’agit d’îles artificielles, entièrement faites en roseaux (les totoras), qui flottent sur le lac et abritent environ 2500 personnes.

Le roseau y est omniprésent et sert à tout faire: cabanes, barques, sièges, lits, décoration … On peut même manger l’extrémité de la plante. On trouve sur les îles une école, une église, un terrain d’élevage pour les cochons, et même un terrain de foot! Une vraie mini ville sur l’eau auto-suffisante en eau (eau du lac filtrée) et en électricité (panneaux solaires).

Globalement la population y vit de façon traditionnelle, principalement de la pêche (la très bonne truite du lac, délicieuse en Ceviche!) et maintenant du tourisme. (Artisanat en roseau, tissage, tricot…).

Un lieu impressionnant bien que de plus en plus touristique… Ne vous attendez pas à vous y trouver seul.

 

L’île de Taquile.

Plus traditionnelle, l’île de Taquile est paisible.

On y vit simplement. Pêche, cultures en étages partout sur l’île, élevage de moutons…

3000 habitants environ sont installés à l’écart de l’agitation de la ville de Puno qui se trouve à plus de 2h en bateau…

Une promenade agréable bien que pas aussi jolie que celle que j’ai pu faire sur la belle Isla del Sol, qui reste mon coup de cœur sur le lac Titicaca.

 

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function bwg_gallery_box_16(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_16" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_16" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_16" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_16=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_16" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=16&gallery_id=61&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_16=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '16', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_16() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_16").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_16(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_16(); });

Besoin d’une pause loin du tourisme de masse?

En manque d’authenticité?

Imaginez-vous arriver sur une belle petite île où l’on se déplace à pied uniquement, pas de voiture ou de deux roues ici, juste quelques ânes qui pourront vous aider à porter vos sacs éventuellement pour grimper les collines et les nombreuses marches des escaliers incas de l’île…

Vous êtes au coeur du plus haut lac d’altitude au monde (3812m), vous avez fait 1h30 de barque depuis Copacabana, la ville côtière la plus proche et vous voilà enfin dans un écrin de nature authentique un peu au milieu de nulle part…

Il fait soleil, la belle Isla del Sol porte bien son nom! Le temps est juste parfait pour explorer les recoins de cette petite île toute en terrasses où l’on vit de la pêche (hum la fameuse truite du lac Titicaca) ou du tourisme pincipalement, où l’on élève des moutons ou des lamas, et où l’on cultive de nombreuses pousses…

Le rythme y est particulièrement tranquille, alors on y prend le temps de juste se promener et de profiter des magnifiques vues offertes depuis les différents miradors de l’île.

On a du mal à croire qu’un conflit larvé entre le Nord et le Sud de l’île dure depuis des mois au sujet de la construction d’un nouvel hôtel au nord. (Enfin si j’ai bien tout compris…)

L’île étant gérée directement par les communautés Aymara qui l’habitent et non par le gouvernement, et les communautés n’ayant toujours pas trouvé d’accord, l’accès à la partie nord de l’île pour les touristes est refusé depuis un moment, privant l’île du Nord des ressources du tourisme… et privant les touristes de l’accès à la partie de l’île où se trouvent la majorité des sites incas. Dommage…

Néanmoins la partie de l’île que l’on peut visiter vaut vraiment le détour et constitue un véritable coup de cœur pour moi ! Certains ne comprendront pas pourquoi, car « il n’y a rien à y faire », mais il y a des choses qui ne s’expliquent pas. 🙂

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La porte du Soleil!

Classé au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco, le site de Tiwanaku est un site pré-Inca qui date de 1600 avant JC et dont « l’utilisation » a perduré jusqu’en 1200 après JC.

Il porte le nom éponyme de la civilisation Tiwanaku qui en a fait un observatoire du soleil, principalement en vue de l’optimisation de l’agriculture: certains temples permettent de suivre le fil des saisons, en particulier des différents solstices.

Il revêt des fonctions religieuse et astronomique certaines, le solstice d’été y étant particulièrement mis à l’honneur via des offrandes à la Pachamama au moment du raccourcissement des jours. Tiwanaku est aussi connu pour sa belle « Porte du soleil » au travers de laquelle passaient les rayons du soleil au moment de ce fameux solstice particulièrement important dans la culture Inca. (Pour les amateurs de BD, elle est dans Tintin!!)

Une visite intéressante qui souffre néanmoins de la comparaison avec les sites Incas du voisin Péruvien…

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function bwg_gallery_box_18(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_18" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_18" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_18" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_18=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_18" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('https://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=18&gallery_id=56&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=200&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_18=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '18', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_18() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_18").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_18(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_18(); });