La nature à l’état brut dans les sublimes îles Galapagos!

Un voyage d’exception… 

Pour la fin de mon voyage, je voulais aller dans un lieu exceptionnel, dont je me souviendrais longtemps, un lieu surprenant, unique.

J’avais entendu parler de ces îles perdues au large de l’Equateur, et à la faune hors du commun, encore relativement préservées du tourisme de masse par des prix prohibitifs… Une faune et flore remarquables en raison des nombreuses espèces endémiques uniques au monde qui s’y trouvent. Leur disparition aux Galapagos équivaudrait à celle de l’espèce, car elle ne sont présentes nulle part ailleurs. D’où l’importance, bien identifiée, de préserver cet écrin de nature.

Les îles sont célèbres également en raison des recherches qui y ont été menées par le naturaliste anglais Charles Darwin. Il y a mis au point ses théories de l’évolution et de la sélection naturelle.

C’est donc dans cette destination extraordinaire que je décidais de terminer mon périple en beauté.

 

… ça se paye!

Les Galapagos sont tournées vers le tourisme, principale source de revenu sur les îles: nombreux hôtels, restaurants, agences touristiques proposant des tours et excursions… mais tout se monnaye très cher! Les croisières sont hors de prix, et même si l’on peut visiter les 3 principales îles (San Cristobal, Santa Cruz et Isabela) en solo sans passer par une croisière, il faut partir avec un portefeuille bien garni pour en profiter pleinement.

Avant même d’arriver sur place, il faut s’acquitter de 20 dollars pour obtenir la carte de transit permettant d’arriver aux Galapagos, puis encore 100 dollars pour entrer dans le parc national des Galapagos. Les déplacements entre les îles se font principalement en bateau (en pas moins de 2h de bateau pourtant rapide!) et restent assez onéreux (25 dollars par trajet). Pour les excursions à la journée et les plongées, il faut compter au moins 150 dollars… Bref tout coûte cher!

 

La nature plein les yeux!

Mais une fois sur place, on oublie vite le prix à payer car on en prend plein les yeux! On est surpris par cette nature à l’état brut: de la roche volcanique noire et accidentée, encore « jeune » à l’échelle géologique, sur laquelle ne pousse que cactus et broussailles, des plages de sable blanc ultra fin, des cratères de volcan aux aspects lunaires, une mer translucide aux dégradés de bleu et turquoise, de la mangrove verdoyante qui prend racine dans les eaux transparentes…

Des animaux qui se déplacent en toute liberté sur l’île: tortues terrestres géantes sur les chemins, lions de mers qui se prélassent sur les plages, manchots qui nagent dans les ports, iguanes marins qui prennent un bain de soleil sur les rochers, boobies aux pattes bleues ou rouges qui dansent pour leur dulcinées sur les tunnels de lave, pinsons qui sautillent, frégates qui planent dans les airs, lézards qui se faufilent le long du chemin…

Et bien sûr dans les eaux fraîches environnantes que l’on découvre en snorkeling ou en plongeant: des Requins White tip et Black tips, des Requins Marteaux, des Mola Molas, des Raies de toutes sortes, des Raies Mantas, des Tortues de Mer à gogo, des Dauphins, des Baleines…

Il y a véritablement de quoi être émerveillé! Sans parler du soleil et du bon air marin dont on profite pleinement.

 

En quelques mots, une destination presque magique qu’il est précieux de découvrir.

 

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L’Equateur, majestueuse terre de volcans!

Traversé par la cordillère des Andes, l’Equateur est LE pays volcanique par excellence, on y dénombre plus d’une centaine de volcans, dont plus d’une dizaine dépasse les 5000m d’altitude (les plus connus: le Chimborazo, le Cayambe, le Cotopaxi…).

Durant mon séjour, j’ai eu la chance d’en approcher certains, pour mon plus grand plaisir, car ils offrent tous de superbes paysages avec leurs lacs ou sommets enneigés… en voici quelques exemples.

 

Dans le bleu du lac Quilotoa

Depuis Latacunga, une paire d’heures en bus ou en taxi permettront d’arriver à ce beau lac aux dégradés de bleu logé dans le cratère d’un volcan. On peut en faire le tour en plusieurs heures, ou bien, descendre au pied du lac pour toucher du bout des doigts l’eau fraîche avant de s’attaquer à la difficile remontée qui est relativement courte (max. 1h) mais très pentue!

La vue depuis le bord du cratère est vraiment superbe, et vaut vraiment le détour, surtout si le temps est de la partie. A ne pas rater en chemin pour Quito!

 

Superbe volcan Cotopaxi

J’ai décidé de faire cette excursion depuis Quito. Départ tôt le matin, en bus, en direction du sud : on m’arrête au bord de la route, au milieu de nulle part, sur la panaméricaine… et de là je cherche une camionnette pour m’amener dans le parc entourant le volcan Cotopaxi. Pas facile de trouver le bon guide, mais je finis par trouver sur celui qui va me conduire avec 3 autres compagnons de route pendant plusieurs heures jusqu’à une lagune située au pied du volcan Cotopaxi, puis jusqu’au point de départ de la randonnée qui mène au refuge Cotopaxi. Un trek d’environ 45 minutes, mais rude je dois dire, en raison de la forte pente, de la nature du sol (roche volcanique effritée en une sorte de sable dans lequel on s’enfonce à chaque pas…) et des conditions climatiques (enfin, seulement, si comme moi vous avez l’ascension avec un vent neigeux effroyable qui vous fouette le visage et vous glace!).

J’ai quand même eu la chance que la vue se dégage un peu lors de la descente afin d’admirer le paysage, le volcan et son sommet enneigé qui culmine à 5897m. Magnifique !

 

Belle promenade autour de la laguna Cuicocha

Dans le parc Cotacachi, situé à environ 1h30 en bus puis taxi d’Otovalo, se trouve la belle lagune de Cuicocha, située dans le cratère d’un volcan. On peut en faire le tour par un joli sentier assez facile, mais il faut néanmoins pour cela plusieurs heures. A défaut, on peut facilement, faire une partie du chemin pour changer de point de vue sur le cratère ou les petits îlots situés au milieu du lac, et revenir sur ses pas en fonction du temps dont on dispose. Une balade que je recommande chaudement pour profiter de la flore locale très riche et de la vue magnifique !

 

TeleferiQo puis promenade jusqu’au Rucu Pinchincha

Il s’agit de la balade du dimanche des habitants de Quito: prendre le téléphérique jusqu’à un point de vue situé à 4050m d’altitude permettant d’admirer Quito et les volcans alentours.

A partir du mirador, les plus courageux tenteront de rejoindre le sommet du volcan Rucu Pichincha (4698m d’altitude). Une bonne randonnée sportive d’environ 3h (l’aller) est cependant nécessaire pour l’atteindre, alors mieux vaut partir tôt, et ce d’autant plus que le temps est très changeant dans la région et se couvre souvent en fin d’après-midi. La balade est belle: superbe vue, végétation variée avec beaucoup de fleurs.

 

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Laguna Cuicocha
function spider_page_1(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_1 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_1) { document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = items_county_1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = items_county_1; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_1').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_1', '1', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_1', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-1').on('click', function() { spider_page_1(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-1').on('click', function() { spider_page_1(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-1').on('click', function() { spider_page_1(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-1').on('click', function() { spider_page_1(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_1').on('click', function() { spider_page_1(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_1(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_1" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_1" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_1" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_1=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_1" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=1&gallery_id=79&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_1=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '1', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_1() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_1").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_1(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_1(); });

 

#bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_2 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_2 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_2 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_2 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_2:hover .bwg_title_spun1_2 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_title_spun2_2 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .displaying-num_2 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .displaying-num_2 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .paging-input_2 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .tablenav-pages_2 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_back_2 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 #spider_popup_overlay_2 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_2 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_2 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_2 #bwg_container2_2 .bwg_gal_title_2 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Volcan Cotopaxi
function spider_page_2(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_2 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_2) { document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = items_county_2; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = items_county_2; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_2').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_2', '2', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_2', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-2').on('click', function() { spider_page_2(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-2').on('click', function() { spider_page_2(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-2').on('click', function() { spider_page_2(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-2').on('click', function() { spider_page_2(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_2').on('click', function() { spider_page_2(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_2(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_2" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_2" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_2" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_2=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_2" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=2&gallery_id=81&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_2=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '2', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_2() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_2").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_2(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_2(); });

 

#bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_3 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_3 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_3 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_3 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_3:hover .bwg_title_spun1_3 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_title_spun2_3 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .displaying-num_3 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .displaying-num_3 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .paging-input_3 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .tablenav-pages_3 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_back_3 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 #spider_popup_overlay_3 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_3 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_3 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_3 #bwg_container2_3 .bwg_gal_title_3 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Quilotoa
function spider_page_3(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_3 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_3) { document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = items_county_3; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = items_county_3; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_3').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_3', '3', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_3', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-3').on('click', function() { spider_page_3(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-3').on('click', function() { spider_page_3(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-3').on('click', function() { spider_page_3(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-3').on('click', function() { spider_page_3(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_3').on('click', function() { spider_page_3(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_3(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_3=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=3&gallery_id=75&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_3=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '3', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_3() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_3").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_3(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_3(); });

 

#bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_4 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_4 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_4 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_4 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_4:hover .bwg_title_spun1_4 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_title_spun2_4 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .displaying-num_4 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .displaying-num_4 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .paging-input_4 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .tablenav-pages_4 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_back_4 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 #spider_popup_overlay_4 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_4 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_4 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_4 #bwg_container2_4 .bwg_gal_title_4 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Volcan Pichincha
function spider_page_4(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_4 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_4) { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = items_county_4; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = items_county_4; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_4', '4', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_4', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_4(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_4=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=4&gallery_id=82&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_4=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '4', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_4() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_4").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_4(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_4(); });

 

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Immersion dans la nature à l’état brut dans la jungle amazonienne.

La jungle, ça se mérite!

Il vous faudra tout d’abord prendre le bus de nuit jusqu’à la ville de Lago Agrio, puis un autre bus pour 2 bonnes heures de route, avant de monter dans un bateau à moteur pour une autre paire d’heures, avant d’arriver enfin à votre point de chute final : un lodge au cœur de la jungle dans la réserve de Cuyabeno.

La vie sauvage…

Un sentiment de bout du monde vous envahit quand depuis le mirador de votre lodge vous ne voyez à perte de vue que la forêt autour de vous !

Pendant 4 jours, vous allez l’explorer cette forêt à la fois inhospitalière et pas si peu accueillante non plus. Certes, elle est peuplée de petites et grosses bêtes qui ne sont pas à prendre à la légère… alors la règle d’or est de ne pas mettre les pieds et les mains n’importe où…! Tarentules, serpents (notamment des anacondas impressionnants), grenouilles, oiseaux, dauphins d’eau douce, caïmans, singes de différentes espèces, cochons sauvages, fourmis géantes, papillons (notamment le superbe Morpho bleu turquoise)… autant d’espèces que l’on peut voir lors des différentes promenades en pirogue, lors des marches de jour ou de nuit que l’on effectue chaque jour.

On apprécie les bottes en caoutchouc et le poncho de pluie pour se déplacer dans la jungle et ses nombreuses mares, et l’on n’oublie pas son anti-moustique pour les balades de nuit. (J’ai servi d’amuse-gueule à une dizaine de moustiques qui s’en sont donnés à cœur-joie à travers mon legging. Eux aussi, ils aiment les européennes! 😉 )

 

Plein les yeux!

On admire le lever ou le coucher du soleil sur la lagune, et les chanceux apercevront parfois un superbe arc en ciel sur la lagune le temps d’une baignade au crépuscule. On y pense à deux fois avant de jeter à l’eau (Et si j’étais croquée par un piranha ou servais de déjeuner à un caïman ou étais électrocutée par une anguille électrique… toutes ces espèces effrayantes qui se trouvent dans la rivière?) . Mais le discours rassurant de notre guide et le fait de se dire qu’on aura probablement qu’une fois dans sa vie la chance de se baigner dans un tel lieu, nous incite à nous immerger sans trop penser au fait qu’on ne voit pas le fond… L’eau est fraîche et le cadre superbe, c’est agréable.

La nuit venue, blotti dans le lit douillet d’une cabane de bois, protégé par une moustiquaire de princesse façon baldaquin, on ferme les yeux pour mieux écouter les bruits inconnus et intrigants de la jungle. On se réveille au petit jour avec ces mêmes bruits d’une nature qui s’éveille et on reste à l’écoute de cette nature à l’état brut.

 

Comprendre la vie locale

La visite d’une communauté locale permet de mieux comprendre comment les populations natives vivent dans cette jungle. Avant il leur était permis de chasser et pêcher, mais depuis que le parc a été déclaré réserve naturelle, la chasse est interdite et la pêche très limitée à certaines zones de vie. Une jeune femme nous montre comment elle récolte le yucca (manioc) et le râpe pour en faire une galette qui sera agrémentée de légumes par exemple.

Nous jouons au foot avec les enfants, avant de rencontrer le chaman (guérisseur) de la communauté. Il nous explique comme il soigne par les plantes et grâce à l’Ayahuasca (il nous montre la liane dont est issu la substance servant au rituel de l’ayahusca). Il nous raconte aussi comment il a déjà soigné certains touristes venus le voir après avoir essayé d’autres médecines traditionnelles restées inefficaces, et comment l’ayahuasca lui a permis de guérir ces personnes. Très intéressant, que l’on croit ou non en ce type de médecine…

 

Au final, une belle expérience, une immersion complète dans ce lieu magique dont la visite est définitivement à mettre sur sa bucket list.

 

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Magnifique Cordillera Blanca pour les amoureux de randonnée

J’avais hâte d’y être… Tout le monde me disait que le parc national Huascaran au sein de la Cordillera Blanca était LE LIEU à ne pas manquer pour les amoureux de la randonnée…

Et vraiment, avec ses magnifiques lacs, rivières, montagnes, glaciers, sommets enneigés, il fait bon faire quelques treks ou même plusieurs jours de trek dans la région.

Bon malheureusement, un début de bronchite m’a freiné dans mes ardeurs et craignant que plusieurs nuits en tente par moins de -15°C aggravent mon cas, j’ai opté pour des excursions à la journée, mais cela étant dit, c’est déjà du grand spectacle !  En voici un aperçu…

 

La Laguna Wilcacocha

Accessible très facilement depuis Huaraz (et ce qui ne gâche rien au plaisir, la moins chère des excursions aussi!), elle est parfaite en randonnée d’acclimatation à faire le jour même de son arrivée en bus de nuit en une demie-journée seulement. Il s’agit d’une jolie lagune et avec vue sur les montagnes environnantes à une altitude relativement faible accessible via une randonnée simple.

 

La Laguna 69

Une longue excursion d’une journée (départ 5h du matin depuis Huaraz) s’impose pour avoir le plaisir de voir la Laguna 69. Plusieurs heures de bus, avant de voir les lagunas Llanganuco (très belles!) puis de commencer un peu plus loin le trek permettant d’aller à la Laguna 69.

Une randonnée assez sportive sera nécessaire pour mériter d’admirer les eaux turquoises de la belle Laguna 69 : il vous faudra randonner environ 3h30 sur un dénivelé important pour atteindre les 4550m d’altitude du lac (attention au mal des montagnes…).

Mais aucun regret possible, c’est magnifique et la marche elle-même est superbe (elle se fait le long d’une rivière, avec vue sur les montagnes alentours, sous un ciel bleu et lumineux : vraiment un beau parcours!)

 

Le glacier Pastoruri

Une excursion à la journée sera également nécessaire pour aller jusqu’à ce beau glacier (qui a malheureusement énormément reculé/fondu avec le temps). La route est assez longue depuis Huaraz (environ 3h) mais plusieurs arrêts sont réalisés en chemin pour admirer des plans d’eaux colorés (une source d’eau gazeuse rouge riche en fer et un lac aux sept couleurs en raison de la présence de différents minéraux) et les Puyas Raimondi (de gigantesques plantes endémiques).

Une fois en bas du glacier, une courte marche (30min. seulement, mais à 5000m d’altitude quand même) permet d’atteindre le glacier. Une belle lagune ainsi qu’un lac rouge (riche en fer là encore!) contrastent avec la blancheur du glacier et rendent le panorama magnifique!

 

Une région qui mérite vraiment le détour et pour laquelle faut il vaut mieux prévoir du temps afin de profiter pleinement de tout ce qu’elle a à offrir sans frustration.

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Une Vallée Sacrée-ment belle!

Cusco et la Vallée Sacrée: à ne pas manquer

 

Après le Lac Titicaca, direction la Vallée Sacrée des Incas, plus au nord, dans les terres, et toujours en altitude!

Mondialement connue pour son célèbre Machu Picchu, la Vallée Sacrée réserve d’autres très belles surprises, à commencer par la jolie ville de Cusco, classée au Patrimoine Mondial de l’Unesco, mais aussi d’autres beaux sites Incas (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray… pour n’en citer que quelques uns), les salins incroyables de Maras… Voici un aperçu rapide de ce qui vous y attendra.

Cusco… Difficile d’en partir!

Dès mon arrivée à Cusco, je suis surprise par l’ambiance de fête qu’il y règne. Et pour cause, nous sommes en pleine préparation des festivités de l’Inti Raymi, une célébration d’origine Inca dédiée au soleil, qui a lieu le 24 juin de chaque année pour fêter de solstice d’été et demander au dieu soleil de longs jours à nouveau. Au programme: des danses, de la musique, des costumes traditionnels sur la Plaza des Armas, la place principale de Cusco. Il est agréable de se promener sur cette place, et plus généralement dans la ville. Le centre historique est très bien préservé: les enseignes des boutiques, agences de tourisme et même des fast food s’intègrent parfaitement (c’est à dire discrètement!) dans l’architecture pour laisser presque intactes les belles façades coloniales aux balcons de bois sculptés. Les petites rues sont charmantes et l’on y voit encore parfois les restes des murs bâtis par les incas avec d’énormes pierres.  Coup de cœur pour le quartier de San Blas: perché sur la colline, il offre un beau panorama sur la ville et son ambiance un poil bobo est sympathique…

Bref, je me suis vite rendue compte que l’on sait quand on arrive à Cusco mais pas quand on repart…  Outre le fait qu’il s’agit d’un très bon point de départ pour visiter toute la vallée via des excursions à la journée, Cusco constitue un lieu de détente idéal pour faire une pause dans son voyage. Tout y est: soleil, bons restaurants et cafés, marché animé, bars sympathiques (vive le Pisco Sour!), lieux pour aller danser et faire la fête, cinéma pas cher (à 6 soles la séance, soit 1.5€, ça vaut le coup d’aller travailler son espagnol devant un bon film avec des popcorn que l’on peut trouver à chaque coin de rue.), massages, stand de rue (miam les brochettes de poulet grillé!)…

Du point de vue culturel aussi la ville n’est pas en reste avec de nombreux musées et sites culturels ou Incas à visiter: le couvent de Santo Domingo y templo del Sol Qorikancha (couvent espagnol construit sur les vestiges d’un temple Inca) , le site inca de Saqsaywaman (sanctuaire religieux Inca), le Museo de Arte Precolombino (petit mais gratuit, avec de belles pièces, notamment de beaux pectoraux en coquillages…), démonstration de danses folkloriques…

Définitivement, une belle étape à la fois culturelle et plaisir, et qui a constitué un bon premier contact avec le Pérou. 🙂

 

La Vallée Sacrée

Plusieurs sites Incas à ne pas manquer:

  • Au nord ouest de Cusco, se trouve la jolie ville d’Ollantaytambo. La ville est encaissée entre deux collines sur lesquelles se trouvent 2 beaux sites Incas qui valent le détour. Perchée sur la colline aménagée en terrasses, la forteresse avec ses ruines de maisons et temples, offre depuis son plus haut point une belle vue sur la ville, les collines et le temple de Pinkuylluna situé sur la colline opposée. La ville en elle-même est un quadrillage de petites rues charmantes où il fait bon se promener.
  • Pisac est autre site Inca à proximité de Cusco. On y voit les ruines de maisons et de temples Incas, et surtout de belles terrasses destinées à l’agriculture. Le marché de Pisac est également réputé pour son artisanat.
  • Moray, un endroit surprenant. Il ne s’agit pas de simples terrasses comme l’on en voit dans la plupart des sites Incas, mais d’un centre de recherche agronomique en quelques sortes. De façon très ingénieuse, les Incas avaient imaginé profiter d’une dépression topographique (une sorte de cirque) naturellement présente dans cette région, très probablement formée par une météorite, pour y construire des terrasses concentriques dédiées à l’agriculture. Chaque étage permettait de planter des cultures différentes du fait du micro-climat créé par cette disposition particulière des champs, avec des écarts de température pouvant aller jusqu’à 5 degrés entre les étages les plus hauts et les plus bas. Ainsi, malgré l’altitude, on pouvait trouver à l’époque des plantes poussant habituellement dans la jungle sur le site de Moray. Incroyablement ingénieux !

Les Salineras de Maras

Quoi de plus incroyable que de trouver en plein milieu des terres des salins perchés sur une colline, sous forme de bassins (plus de 3900!) et en terrasse! L’eau salée circule via des rigoles qui alimentent les bassins en cascade qui sont ensuite asséchés pour collecter le sel (vendu sous forme de sel de cuisine, de bain ou de fleur de sel). Un dégradé de couleurs et un paysage absolument magnifique!

Chinchero

Une petite ville d’où la vue sur les montagnes environnantes est superbe. On y voit là encore des terrasses Incas… ou bien l’on s’y arrête pour en savoir plus sur le travail des tisserands et du travail de la laine.

 

Une Vallée Sacrée qui mérite d’être explorée (même si, oui, je sais, on est pressé d’aller au Machu Picchu!)

 

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Cusco
function spider_page_7(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_7 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_7) { document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = items_county_7; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = items_county_7; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_7').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_7', '7', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_7', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-7').on('click', function() { spider_page_7(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-7').on('click', function() { spider_page_7(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-7').on('click', function() { spider_page_7(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-7').on('click', function() { spider_page_7(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_7').on('click', function() { spider_page_7(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_7(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_7" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_7" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_7" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_7=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_7" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=7&gallery_id=67&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_7=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '7', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_7() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_7").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_7(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_7(); });

#bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_8 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_8 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_8:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_8 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_8 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumb_8 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_8:hover .bwg_title_spun1_8 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_title_spun2_8 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .tablenav-pages_8 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .displaying-num_8 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .displaying-num_8 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .paging-input_8 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .tablenav-pages_8 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .tablenav-pages_8 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .tablenav-pages_8 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .tablenav-pages_8 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_back_8 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 #spider_popup_overlay_8 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_8 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_8 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_8 #bwg_container2_8 .bwg_gal_title_8 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Maras
function spider_page_8(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_8 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_8) { document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = items_county_8; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = items_county_8; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_8').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_8', '8', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_8', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-8').on('click', function() { spider_page_8(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-8').on('click', function() { spider_page_8(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-8').on('click', function() { spider_page_8(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-8').on('click', function() { spider_page_8(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_8').on('click', function() { spider_page_8(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_8(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_8" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_8" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_8" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_8=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_8" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=8&gallery_id=65&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_8=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '8', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_8() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_8").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_8(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_8(); });

#bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_9 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_9 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_9:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_9 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_9 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumb_9 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_9:hover .bwg_title_spun1_9 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_title_spun2_9 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .tablenav-pages_9 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .displaying-num_9 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .displaying-num_9 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .paging-input_9 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .tablenav-pages_9 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .tablenav-pages_9 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .tablenav-pages_9 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .tablenav-pages_9 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_back_9 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 #spider_popup_overlay_9 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_9 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_9 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_9 #bwg_container2_9 .bwg_gal_title_9 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Ollantaytambo
function spider_page_9(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_9 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_9) { document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = items_county_9; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = items_county_9; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_9').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_9', '9', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_9', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-9').on('click', function() { spider_page_9(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-9').on('click', function() { spider_page_9(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-9').on('click', function() { spider_page_9(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-9').on('click', function() { spider_page_9(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_9').on('click', function() { spider_page_9(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_9(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_9" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_9" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_9" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_9=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_9" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=9&gallery_id=66&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_9=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '9', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_9() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_9").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_9(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_9(); });

#bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_10 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_10 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_10 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_10 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_10:hover .bwg_title_spun1_10 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_title_spun2_10 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .displaying-num_10 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .displaying-num_10 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .paging-input_10 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .tablenav-pages_10 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_back_10 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 #spider_popup_overlay_10 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_10 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_10 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_10 #bwg_container2_10 .bwg_gal_title_10 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Pisac
function spider_page_10(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_10 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_10) { document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = items_county_10; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = items_county_10; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_10').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_10', '10', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_10', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-10').on('click', function() { spider_page_10(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-10').on('click', function() { spider_page_10(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-10').on('click', function() { spider_page_10(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-10').on('click', function() { spider_page_10(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_10').on('click', function() { spider_page_10(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_10(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_10" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_10" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_10" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_10=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_10" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=10&gallery_id=64&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_10=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '10', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_10() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_10").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_10(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_10(); });

#bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_11 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_11 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_11 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_11 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_11:hover .bwg_title_spun1_11 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_title_spun2_11 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .displaying-num_11 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .displaying-num_11 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .paging-input_11 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .tablenav-pages_11 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_back_11 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 #spider_popup_overlay_11 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_11 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_11 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_11 #bwg_container2_11 .bwg_gal_title_11 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Moray
function spider_page_11(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_11 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_11) { document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = items_county_11; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = items_county_11; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_11').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_11', '11', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_11', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-11').on('click', function() { spider_page_11(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-11').on('click', function() { spider_page_11(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-11').on('click', function() { spider_page_11(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-11').on('click', function() { spider_page_11(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_11').on('click', function() { spider_page_11(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_11(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_11" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_11" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_11" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_11=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_11" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=11&gallery_id=63&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_11=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '11', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_11() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_11").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_11(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_11(); });

#bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_12 * { -moz-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12 { -moz-box-sizing: content-box; box-sizing: content-box; background-color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; height: 150px; margin: 4px; padding: 0px; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); text-align: center; vertical-align: middle; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; width: 300px; z-index: 100; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12:hover { -ms-transform: scale(1.1); -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); backface-visibility: hidden; -webkit-backface-visibility: hidden; -moz-backface-visibility: hidden; -ms-backface-visibility: hidden; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); transform: scale(1.1); z-index: 102; position: relative; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun2_12 { border: 0px none #CCCCCC; border-radius: 0; box-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; display: inline-block; height: 150px; overflow: hidden; width: 300px; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumbnails_12 { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00); display: inline-block; font-size: 0; max-width: 1560px; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_12 { display: inline-block; text-align: center; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_standart_thumb_spun1_12:hover .bwg_title_spun1_12 { left: 0px; top: 0px; opacity: 1; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_title_spun2_12 { color: #CCCCCC; display: table-cell; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; height: inherit; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; vertical-align: middle; width: inherit; word-wrap: break-word; } /*pagination styles*/ #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 { text-align: center; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin: 6px 0 4px; display: block; height: 30px; line-height: 30px; } @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) { #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .displaying-num_12 { display: none; } } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .displaying-num_12 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; margin-right: 10px; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .paging-input_12 { font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; vertical-align: middle; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled, #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled:hover, #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a.disabled:focus { cursor: default; color: rgba(102, 102, 102, 0.5); } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .tablenav-pages_12 a { cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-family: segoe ui; font-weight: bold; color: #666666; text-decoration: none; padding: 3px 6px; margin: 0; border-radius: 0; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; border-color: #E3E3E3; background-color: #FFFFFF; opacity: 1.00; filter: Alpha(opacity=100); box-shadow: 0; transition: all 0.3s ease 0s;-webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease 0s; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_back_12 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #000000 !important; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; padding: 0; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 #spider_popup_overlay_12 { background-color: #000000; opacity: 0.70; filter: Alpha(opacity=70); } .bwg_play_icon_spun_12 { width: inherit; height: inherit; display: table; position: absolute; } .bwg_play_icon_12 { color: #CCCCCC; font-size: 32px; vertical-align: middle; display: table-cell !important; z-index: 1; text-align: center; margin: 0 auto; } #bwg_container1_12 #bwg_container2_12 .bwg_gal_title_12 { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); color: #CCCCCC; display: block; font-family: segoe ui; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; text-shadow: 0px 0px 0px #888888; text-align: center; }

Chinchero
function spider_page_12(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_12 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_12) { document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = items_county_12; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = items_county_12; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_12').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_12', '12', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_12', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-12').on('click', function() { spider_page_12(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-12').on('click', function() { spider_page_12(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-12').on('click', function() { spider_page_12(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-12').on('click', function() { spider_page_12(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_12').on('click', function() { spider_page_12(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_12(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_12" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_12" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_12" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_12=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_12" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=12&gallery_id=70&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=150&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_12=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '12', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_12() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_12").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_12(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_12(); });

 

if(typeof gmwdmapData == 'undefined'){ var gmwdmapData = []; } gmwdmapData["widget" + '15'] = ""; gmwdmapData["mapId" + '15'] = Number("9"); gmwdmapData["centerLat" + '15'] = Number("-11.78688946531401"); gmwdmapData["centerLng" + '15'] = Number("-72.29570434139339"); gmwdmapData["zoom" + '15'] = Number("5"); gmwdmapData["mapType" + '15'] = "0"; gmwdmapData["maxZoom" + '15'] = Number("22"); gmwdmapData["minZoom" + '15'] = Number("2"); gmwdmapData["mapWhellScrolling" + '15'] = Number("0") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["infoWindowOpenOn" + '15'] = "click" ; gmwdmapData["mapDragable" + '15'] = Number("1") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["mapDbClickZoom" + '15'] = Number("0") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["enableZoomControl" + '15'] = Number("1") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["enableMapTypeControl" + '15'] = Number("1") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["mapTypeControlOptions" + '15'] = {}; gmwdmapData["enableScaleControl" + '15'] = Number("1") == 1 ? true : false; gmwdmapData["enableStreetViewControl" + '15'] = Number("1") == 1 ? true : false; 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Et enfin, le Machu Picchu!

Tadam! Le Machu Picchu!

Je l’attendais avec impatience, le moment où j’allais le découvrir, ce célèbre Machu Picchu! Il faisait partie de ma bucket list depuis teeeeellement longtemps…  et il m’aura fallu plus de 5 mois de voyage par des chemins très détournés avant d’y arriver!

Eh bien je n’ai pas été déçue… Au contraire, je m’attendais à ce que ce soit ultra touristique et que l’expérience soit un peu gâchée par cela, mais en arrivant tôt le matin sur le site, on profite d’une vue magnifique avec encore une quantité de touristes raisonnable, d’autant que la montée de plus de 1700 marches à la lampe frontale à 5h du matin en aura refroidi quelques uns – qui auront préféré faire la grasse mat et prendre le bus un peu plus tard…

Le site est vraiment très beau, perché à 2430m d’altitude, niché dans un écrin de nature. On le perçoit différemment au lever du jour dans la semi-pénombre de l’aube avec quelques nuages bien placés qui amplifient encore un peu plus l’ambiance mystique du site, et un peu plus tard quand le soleil est au zénith et que la lumière embrasse pleinement le site, révélant toute sa majesté. Dans les deux cas, on est clairement impressionné par la grandeur et la splendeur du Machu Picchu entouré de ses montagnes (notamment celle qui ressemble à un pain de sucre, le « Wayna Picchu ») et terrasses agricoles.

Euh mais c’est quoi au fait, le Machu Picchu, stp? 

En bref, il s’agit d’une cité Inca où séjournait parfois l’empereur Pachacutec. Il était alors entouré de toute sa « cour », d’où la présence de maisons, d’une domaine agricole permettant de nourrir l’empereur et les habitants de la cité, de temples, tombeaux, lieux de cérémonie…. Ayant été «  découvert » très tardivement (incroyable mais vrai, sa découverte date du début du XXème siècle, en 1911!), le site est très bien préservé, là où de nombreux autres sanctuaires ont été transformés par les espagnols (en églises catholiques par exemple!). De fait le Machu Picchu est un très beau site, maintenant protégé au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco.

Le Jungle Trail

Mon expérience « Machu Picchu » a je dois dire été un peu particulière car j’ai choisi de faire un circuit appelé le « Jungle trail » (pas aussi glacial que le Salkantay trail, pas aussi cher et couru que l’Inca trail… et surtout beaucoup plus diversifié en matière d’activités que les autres trails menant au Machu Picchu). Au programme, sur 4 jours/3 nuits :

  • 5h de descente en VTT dans une vallée magnifique et sur une route assez sûre, donc très agréable malgré le dénivelé.

  • 7km de rafting sur une rivière de catégorie 3: pas dangereux et quand même de bonnes sensations et surtout, une super ambiance à bord avec notre guide qui a choisi pour cri de guerre « sexy llamas »… (va savoir pourquoi!)

  • Une journée entière de randonnée dans la jungle sur le chemin de l’Inca: superbes paysages à travers la jungle et les cultures de coca, bananiers, cacaoyers… On s’arrête pour goûter les fruits locaux, le chocolat maison, la liqueur de serpent (avec un vrai serpent à l’intérieur, oui, oui), pour se faire peindre le visage ou le bras avec une teinture naturelle, bavarder avec Coco le perroquet… On passe un très bon moment! La surprise de la journée: la traversée de la rivière dans un panier suspendu sur une tyrolienne: improbable!

  • Un moment de détente dans les bains chauds de Cocalmayo… Après une longue journée de marche, c’est un pur bonheur.

  • Une journée de marche jusqu’à Aguas Calientes, la petite ville située au pied du Machu Picchu… (marche le long de la voie ferrée d’Hidroelectrica… (pas le meilleur moment, mais c’est ça ou il faut prendre le train, et c’est hors de prix!)

  • Et enfin, le dernier jour… le graal: la visite du Machu Picchu!

Une aventure très sympathique, dans une super ambiance! (Qui aurait cru qu’un petit resto traditionnel se transformerait en piste de danse pour une soirée latino avec lumières et boule à facette ???

Bien entendu, cela va sans dire, le Machu Picchu reste un MUST SEE… et pour les plus aventuriers je recommande le Jungle Trail. 🙂

 

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Coup de cœur pour Isla del Sol, petite île du Lac Titicaca

Besoin d’une pause loin du tourisme de masse?

En manque d’authenticité?

Imaginez-vous arriver sur une belle petite île où l’on se déplace à pied uniquement, pas de voiture ou de deux roues ici, juste quelques ânes qui pourront vous aider à porter vos sacs éventuellement pour grimper les collines et les nombreuses marches des escaliers incas de l’île…

Vous êtes au coeur du plus haut lac d’altitude au monde (3812m), vous avez fait 1h30 de barque depuis Copacabana, la ville côtière la plus proche et vous voilà enfin dans un écrin de nature authentique un peu au milieu de nulle part…

Il fait soleil, la belle Isla del Sol porte bien son nom! Le temps est juste parfait pour explorer les recoins de cette petite île toute en terrasses où l’on vit de la pêche (hum la fameuse truite du lac Titicaca) ou du tourisme pincipalement, où l’on élève des moutons ou des lamas, et où l’on cultive de nombreuses pousses…

Le rythme y est particulièrement tranquille, alors on y prend le temps de juste se promener et de profiter des magnifiques vues offertes depuis les différents miradors de l’île.

On a du mal à croire qu’un conflit larvé entre le Nord et le Sud de l’île dure depuis des mois au sujet de la construction d’un nouvel hôtel au nord. (Enfin si j’ai bien tout compris…)

L’île étant gérée directement par les communautés Aymara qui l’habitent et non par le gouvernement, et les communautés n’ayant toujours pas trouvé d’accord, l’accès à la partie nord de l’île pour les touristes est refusé depuis un moment, privant l’île du Nord des ressources du tourisme… et privant les touristes de l’accès à la partie de l’île où se trouvent la majorité des sites incas. Dommage…

Néanmoins la partie de l’île que l’on peut visiter vaut vraiment le détour et constitue un véritable coup de cœur pour moi ! Certains ne comprendront pas pourquoi, car « il n’y a rien à y faire », mais il y a des choses qui ne s’expliquent pas. 🙂

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« It’s not where you’ve been, but where you can go! »

« It’s not where you’ve been, but where you can go! »*

Avant de partir, j’avais listé toutes ces choses que j’aimerais faire durant ce voyage: voir certains sites, faire certaines activités, aller dans tel ou tel pays… Avec cette idée que ce serait maintenant ou jamais, et qu’il fallait que je me donne les moyens de réaliser mes rêves.
On m’avait parlé aussi de cette montagne bolivienne, 6088m au sommet, soi-disant l’un des 6000m les plus accessibles au monde… J’étais partagée entre l’envie secrète de la mettre sur ma bucket list et la peur de l’échec, parce que quand même, 6088m, ce n’est pas rien!

Au final, une fois sur place, entendre le récit de ceux qui ont fait l’ascension me donne l’espoir que c’est possible et surtout, me donne l’envie de tenter l’expérience avec l’idée que j’irai au bout de ce que mon corps me permettra sans me mettre en danger et que si c’est pas le sommet, ce ne sera pas grave.

Je décide de me lancer: après m’être bien renseignée sur tous les aspects inhérents à cette ascension (c’est de la haute montagne, ce n’est pas anodin encore moins un parcours de santé), je choisis un guide et je me fonce.

Premier jour

Nous arrivons au camp de base de Casa Blanca situé à 4700m environ en voiture après une longue route de piste cahotante. L’excitation est palpable. Nous posons nos affaires au refuge et nous équipons: gants, pantalon et veste de ski, bonnet, casque, 2 paires de chaussettes, chaussures de ski… Cette première journée est une journée d’acclimatation. Elle est destinée à nous préparer à faire un effort physique en situation d’hypoxie (manque d’oxygène, ici lié à l’altitude).

Nous marchons jusqu’au glacier situé à 5000m environ et là nous mettons baudrier et crampons, et c’est parti pour l’escalade de 20m d’un mur de glace vertical appartenant au glacier à la force des crampons et des piolets. Pour la première fois de ma vie je me suis entendue pousser des cris (comme les tenniswomen à la télé, vous voyez?) à chaque fois que je plantais le piolet avec l’envie de ne pas abandonner malgré la difficulté de l’exercice!

 

2ème jour

Le lendemain, nous partons pour le deuxième refuge situé au Camp des Roches à 5130m environ, chargés de nos gros sac à dos d’une bonne dizaine de kilos, au moins, contenant beaucoup d’eau, le matériel de montagne (crampons, baudrier, piolet …), des couches supplémentaires au cas où, et notre sac de couchage. Je regrette déjà d’avoir forcé sur les arepas colombiennes, les banana bread guatémaltèques, les empanadas argentines… entre le sac et mes bourrelets je me sens louuuuurde, je suis obligée de marcher trèèèèès lentement et je me dis que le sommet, ce n’est vraiment pas gagné!

Mais la marche est d’assez courte durée, en fin de matinée nous sommes déjà arrivés au campement et nous pouvons nous restaurer et nous reposer pour la vraie ascension qui aura lieu le soir même!

3ème jour

On se lève vers minuit le regard hagard, complètement déphasés, sans savoir s’il fait jour ou nuit. Vraiment pas faim mais on se force à manger pour se donner de l’énergie et on boit un thé de Coca en prévention du mal de l’altitude potentiellement à venir. Il doit faire au moins -15 degrés dehors, la chasse d’eau artisanale des toilettes a gelé, l’air est glacé, alors on met 3 épaisseurs de chaussettes, deux épaisseurs de gants, 2 pantalons, autant de pulls, les crampons, le baudrier, le casque avec la frontale… et on part encordés à l’assaut de la montagne que l’on ne distingue même pas dans l’obscurité et les nuages!

L ‘ascension commence et on va douceeeeement. Difficile de respirer, je dois régulièrement m’arrêter pour reprendre mon souffle quelques minutes. On ouvre un twix pour se donner du courage mais il a congelé et mon estomac est noué… L’eau dans ma bouteille est glacée, des glaçons se sont formé bien qu’à l’abris dans mon sac.

On passe des passages difficiles où l’on s’enfonce dans la neige à chaque pas… on s’aide du piolet… Il faut trouver le bon rythme pas trop lent ni surtout trop rapide… et avant tout régulier pour gérer son souffle. Pas évident d’autant qu’on n’a pas tous le même rythme…Mon guide était je pense désespéré par mon pas de tortue mais je ne pouvais vraiment pas aller plus vite!

Vient d’ailleurs le moment où le mode pilote automatique est enclenché: on ne réfléchit plus, on avance sans essayer de comprendre, on marche dans les pas du guide, on suit la corde tendue devant soi, on marche même parfois en fermant les yeux… avec une seule idée en tête: continuer, ne pas abandonner malgré l’envie parfois de le faire!

En chemin on croise deux autres groupes qui sont montés jusqu’à environ 5800m et ont fait demi-tour car il y avait un risque d’avalanche… Mais mon guide me dit que nous nous allons continuer un peu, que ce n’est pas risqué… Bon c’est lui le spécialiste, il monte le sommet plus de 2 fois par semaine, alors je le crois et je le suis.

Nous atteignons les 6000m sans trop de difficulté et sommes récompensés par le lever du soleil qui nous réserve des couleurs de rouges, jaune et orange dans le ciel et sur les montagnes absolument fabuleuses.

Il ne nous reste que 88 petits mètres pour atteindre le sommet… Lucas, mon compagnon de challenge et moi nous regardons: que faisons-nous? On le monte ce sommet?

Un vent glacial souffle par rafales à plus de 50km transportant des flocons de neige, le sommet n’est absolument pas visible, il est complètement pris par les nuages, en un instant la belle vue sur les montagnes est devenue complètement bouchée, il n’y a plus rien à voir et on ne voit pas un seul morceau de ciel dégagé…

Autant vous dire, que la motivation pour faire encore 88m d’ascension très difficile et potentiellement risquée pour ne RIEN voir, avec un risque d’avalanche ne nous a pas motivé à cet instant précis…

Au final, nous savoir capable d’atteindre ces 6088m et en avoir déjà atteint 6000m nous a suffit et nous avons décidé d’en rester là...

Quand je vois les photos de certaines autres excursions par temps ultra clair, je me dis que ça vaut vraiment le coup d’y aller à ce sommet… mais voilà, c’est de la haute montagne, le temps est un peu imprévisible et surtout très changeant…

Mais je n’ai pas dit mon dernier mot, un jour peut-être j’irai le taper ce 6088m! En attendant, cette expérience de dépassement de soi m’a déjà apporté énormément et a réussi à me prouver que TOUT est possible!

 

*Vue sur une affiche de l’agence Climbing South America, cette phrase m’a interpellée et inspirée. 🙂 

Pour mon trek, je suis partie avec un guide local indépendant appelé German.

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Douce escale à Sucre!

Douce escale à Sucre!

 

La jolie ville de Sucre est attachante.

De belles maisons blanches à l’architecture coloniale baroque, de jolies rues qui montent jusqu’à la place de La Recoleta puis jusqu’au Cerro Sica et qui offrent un beau panorama sur la ville, de belles églises, la grande place 25 de Mayo, très animée au cœur de la ville, la chocolaterie « Para Ti » véritable institution pour les amoureux du chocolat, le marché central, vibrant et bruyant…

Une ville plutôt paisible où il fait bon vivre, où il fait bon passer du bon temps, et ce d’autant qu’il y fait plus chaud qu’ à Potosi, car nous ne sommes « qu’à »  2750m d’altitude, ce qui, croyez-moi, n’est pas si haut pour la Bolivie!

On en oublie presque qu’il s’agit de la capitale – certes controversée – du pays. (capitale constitutionnelle qui retient le pouvoir judiciaire, alors que La Paz est la capitale économique qui concentre aussi les pouvoirs législatif et exécutif…) Une capitale au lourd passé comme en témoigne « La Casa de la Libertad », musée très intéressant qui retrace l’histoire politique du pays et notamment l’acquisition de son indépendance.

Sucre constitue donc bel et bien une étape de visite intéressante tant pour son aspect historique et culturel que coocooning.

 

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Sur la trace… des dinosaures!!!

Sur la trace des dinosaures?

Tu as pris de l’Ayahuasca?*

Non, non, c’est bien ce que vous pouvez découvrir dans le Parc National de Torotoro, des traces de dinosaures fossilisées datant du Crétacique Supérieur, plus particulièrement des traces de Sauropode, Théropode et d’Ankylosaures!

Je ne croyais pas que ce serait possible, mais les traces déposées dans la terre humide il y a des millions d’années se sont solidifiées et sont parfaitement visibles aujourd’hui!

Et attention, la pa-patte de le petite bête ne fait autre que ma taille pour l’empreinte retrouvée la plus grosse du site!

 

Outre les traces de dinosaures, on va à Torotoro pour randonner jusqu’au superbe Canyon d’El Virgel et ses cascades, admirer les « vagues rocheuses » auxquelles est adossée le petit village de Toroto (d’énormes formations rocheuses sous forme de vagues creusées par la mer), voir des fossiles de toute sortes (mollusques et même tortues!), découvrir les belles cavités creusées par l’eau dans la roche à Ciudad de Itas et faire de la spéléologie dans la grotte d’Umajalanta. Une escapade sportive distrayante même s’il ne faut pas être claustrophobe pour passer dans les tunnels étroits de la grotte! 😉

Un parc étonnant qui vaut vraiment le détour et ravira les passionnés de géologie ou les curieux.

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* L’Ayahuasca est une drogue purificatrice utilisée traditionnellement en Amazonie dans le cadre des cérémonies chamaniques