Pura Vida sur la côte Caraïbe

Quand l’expression « Pura Vida » prend tout son sens…

Tu viens de commander un jus de fruit frais, on te le sert, tu payes et le serveur te répond « Con gusto » (« avec plaisir »), « Pura Vida! ».  Pura Vida?

« Pura Vida » veut littéralement dire « Vie Pure » mais je dirais que la signification de cette expression se traduirait en français par « la vie est belle ». On l’utilise pour dire « c’est cool », « bonjour » ou « aurevoir », « merci », « c’est génial »…

Cette expression, je l’ai entendue vraiment souvent au Costa Rica, mais pour moi elle a pris tout son sens sur la côte Caraïbe, dans les petites villes de Cahuita et Puerto Viejo.

Situées à une demie heure l’une de l’autre, ces stations balnéaires ressemblent plus à des villages : quelques rues principales dans lesquelles se concentrent quelques cabanes colorées, bars, restaurants et hôtels. Très touristiques mais sans en avoir trop l’air, on s’attache rapidement à leur ambiance très détendue, baba cool à la jamaïcaine, bref Pura Vida.

Comment passer le temps? Il fait bon prendre un vélo et aller se poser à la plage (de belles plages de sable blanc ou noir), bouquiner dans un hammak, surfer sur de belles (et grosses vagues) ou juste se promener les pieds dans le sable. Le parc naturel de Cahuita est également une belle surprise pour un parc gratuit: une belle marche dans la forêt, tout près de la plage, et de nombreux animaux (racoons, singes, paresseux, serpents, crabes bleus, …) pour mon plus grand plaisir.

Pura Vida!

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Moment hors du temps à Tortuguero

Le parc naturel de Tortuguero est situé sur un bras de mer dont l’une des faces donne sur la côté Caraïbe (c’est en réalité une belle plage) et l’autre face est constituée de mangrove donnant sur la lagune. (Pour mieux visualiser, je vous invite à cliquer ici)

C’est donc au moyen d’une « lancha » (un bateau motorisé) que l’on accède au petit village de Tortuguero après un trajet d’une heure environ. (Je passe les détails des nombreux bus qu’il faut prendre depuis San José la capitale pour atteindre le point de départ de la lancha!)

Hyper authentique bien que touristique, il semble que le temps n’a pas d’effet ici, on y vit une vie qui semble paisible. Pas de voiture ici, on se déplace à pied principalement. On vit dans des cabanes en bois coloré, au rythme de la nature: on se lève tôt et on se couche tôt.

La découverte du parc naturel de Tortuguero est la principale activité de ce petit village. Le meilleur moyen pour cela est de prendre tôt le matin, à la fraîche (i.e. 6h du mat) un canoë ou un kayak afin de naviguer sans bruit dans les eaux paisibles de la lagune, au moment où les animaux sont les plus actifs. Notre guide nous montre alors toutes sortes d’animaux: singes hurleurs, capucins, spider monkeys, de nombreux oiseaux, caïmans (il n’est pas conseillé de tomber à l’eau!) cachés dans la mangrove…

C’est ensuite une belle journée de farniente, détente et tranquillité  sous le soleil avec au programme promenade et baignade sur la longue plage de Tortuguero qui nous attend.

Au moment du coucher de soleil, c’est du côté de la paisible lagune, que l’on admire les derniers rayons de soleil (à 17h50 en cette saison) et les quelques lanchas qui effectuent leur dernier trajet de la journée.

Un cadre idéal pour se reposer au calme, loin de l’agitation de la ville, dans ce lieu très particulier qui mérite vraiment le détour.

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Une journée à La Fortuna, quelle chance!

Une journée à La Fortuna, quelle chance!

Depuis Monteverde, prenez une piste sinueuse dans les collines. La superbe vue sur les vallons bien verts fait vite oublier que la route est vraiment mauvaise. Mais le clou du spectacle, c’est l’apparition du majestueux volcan Arenal, qui se fait de plus en plus proche au fur et à mesure de votre avancée.

Montez alors à bord d’une lancha (barque motorisée) sur un joli petit lac pour vous approcher du volcan et arriver jusqu’à la petite ville de La Fortuna qui, ayant échappé à plusieurs éruptions, porte bien son nom…

Il est maintenant interdit de faire l’ascension de ce volcan toujours en activité, que l’on voit fumer en permanence, mais qui n’entre, bienheureusement, que rarement en éruption.

En revanche, une belle balade d’une demie-journée – via un tour par exemple – permet de réaliser une visite guidée de la forêt luxuriante situé au pied du volcan et de voir ainsi de beaux points de vue sur le volcan, de grandes cascades et de nombreux animaux: coatis, toucans, singes hurleurs, spider monkeys, capucins, oiseaux colorés…

Mais le moment le plus insolite de cette journée reste la baignade dans l’eau (naturellement) chaude venue des contreforts de la terre: à la lumière de la bougie, le soir venu, on s’assoit dans une piscine naturelle alimentée en permanence par une rivière et sa cascade.

Un moment unique en son genre qui restera un très bon souvenir.

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function bwg_gallery_box_3(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_3" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_3=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_3" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=3&gallery_id=42&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=200&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_3=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '3', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_3() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_3").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_3(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_3(); });

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Montezuma & Cabo Blanco: un avant goût de mon séjour au Costa Rica

Mes premiers parc et plage du Costa Rica

Petite station balnéaire sur la côte Pacifique, Montezuma est un coin tranquille où il fait bon passer quelques jours loin de la grande ville.
Une rue principale, quelques hotels et auberges, des petits restos en bord de plage où il fait bon déguster un Gallo pinto (plat traditionnel à base de riz mélangé avec des haricots rouges, servi avec une viande au choix) ou un Casado (Entendez littéralement le plat de l’homme « marié »: là encore du riz, des frijoles les fameux haricots rouges, une salade souvent de choux, parfois des bananes plantain, et une viande ou un poisson au choix …), accompagné d’un Batido (jus de fruits frais dilué avec de l’eau ou du lait façon smoothie ou milkshake)… On vient ici pour les plages de sable noir ou de sable et galets rouges qui jouxtent la ville, ou en encore pour le parc naturel de Cabo Blanco.

Situé à moins d’une heure en bus de Montezuma, ce parc, mon premier au Costa Rica est une belle découverte: une balade un peu sportive de 1h30 dans la forêt permet d’atteindre une belle plage de sable blanc tout en rencontrant de nombreux animaux en chemin: coatis, familles de singes hurleurs, serpents, oiseaux, écureuils… Rien de tel après cette bonne marche qu’un plongeon dans la mer, mais attention, ici les vagues sont puissantes et il y a de nombreux rochers, les précautions d’usage sont de rigueur…

Une belle première étape dans mon voyage au Costa Rica!

 

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function spider_page_4(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_4 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_4) { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = items_county_4; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = items_county_4; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_4').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_4', '4', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_4', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_4').on('click', function() { spider_page_4(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
function bwg_gallery_box_4(image_id) { var filterTags = jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() ? jQuery("#bwg_tags_id_bwg_standart_thumbnails_4" ).val() : 0; var filtersearchname = jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() ? "&filter_search_name_4=" + jQuery("#bwg_search_input_4" ).val() : ''; spider_createpopup('http://lemondepleinlesyeux.fr/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=GalleryBox&tags=0&current_view=4&gallery_id=40&theme_id=1&thumb_width=300&thumb_height=200&open_with_fullscreen=0&open_with_autoplay=0&image_width=800&image_height=500&image_effect=fade&wd_sor=order&wd_ord=asc&enable_image_filmstrip=0&image_filmstrip_height=70&enable_image_ctrl_btn=1&enable_image_fullscreen=1&popup_enable_info=1&popup_info_always_show=0&popup_info_full_width=0&popup_hit_counter=0&popup_enable_rate=0&slideshow_interval=5&enable_comment_social=1&enable_image_facebook=1&enable_image_twitter=1&enable_image_google=1&enable_image_pinterest=0&enable_image_tumblr=0&watermark_type=none&slideshow_effect_duration=1&image_id=' + image_id + "&filter_tag_4=" + filterTags + filtersearchname, '4', '800', '500', 1, 'testpopup', 5, "bottom"); } function bwg_document_ready_4() { var bwg_touch_flag = false; jQuery(".bwg_lightbox_4").on("click", function () { if (!bwg_touch_flag) { bwg_touch_flag = true; setTimeout(function(){ bwg_touch_flag = false; }, 100); bwg_gallery_box_4(jQuery(this).attr("data-image-id")); return false; } }); } jQuery(document).ready(function () { bwg_document_ready_4(); });

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Les yeux dans le vert à Monteverde (Costa Rica)

Les yeux dans le vert à Monteverde

Accessible avec patience par une piste cahotante qui grimpe dur, la petite ville de Monteverde se mérite… mais à l’arrivée, on n’est pas déçu par ce que l’on y trouve.

Ici, on y vit sur un nuage, ou plutôt dans les nuages (ou presque) et c’est à cela que la localité doit son nom. Car ici tout est bien vert, même en cette fin de saison sèche (de décembre à avril) alors que dans la plupart des forêts costaricaines la nature montre quelques signes de souffrance. Et si la forêt tropicale humide proche est ainsi, c’est parce qu’elle bénéficie d’une forêt de nuages, entendez par là un magnifique regroupement de nuages blancs au-dessus de la végétation, qui la maintient humide et verdoyante toute l’année.

Pas étonnant que cet écrin de verdure protégé sous forme de réserves soit devenu le paradis de nombreux animaux: singes, oiseaux, insectes… mais aussi des touristes venus les voir.

La commune vit essentiellement de l’écotourisme: excursions guidées dans les réserves pour l’observation des oiseaux et animaux de jour comme de nuit, promenade sur des points suspendus ou tyroliennes dans la canopée…

On paye le prix fort mais la nature nous le rend bien par ses merveilles: coatis, singes, paresseux, tatoos, magnifiques mais rares Quetzals (oiseau emblématique du Guatemala), oiseaux en tous genres, serpents, scorpions, tarentules… Un régal pour les amoureux de la nature et de la vie sauvage!

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function spider_page_5(cur, x, y, load_more) { if (typeof load_more == "undefined") { var load_more = false; } if (jQuery(cur).hasClass('disabled')) { return false; } var items_county_5 = 1; switch (y) { case 1: if (x >= items_county_5) { document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = items_county_5; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = x + 1; } break; case 2: document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = items_county_5; break; case -1: if (x == 1) { document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = 1; } else { document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = x - 1; } break; case -2: document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = 1; break; default: document.getElementById('page_number_5').value = 1; } spider_frontend_ajax('gal_front_form_5', '5', 'bwg_standart_thumbnails_5', '0', '', 'album', 0, '', '', load_more); } jQuery('.first-page-5').on('click', function() { spider_page_5(this, 1, -2); }); jQuery('.prev-page-5').on('click', function() { spider_page_5(this, 1, -1); return false; }); jQuery('.next-page-5').on('click', function() { spider_page_5(this, 1, 1); return false; }); jQuery('.last-page-5').on('click', function() { spider_page_5(this, 1, 2); }); jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_5').on('click', function() { spider_page_5(this, 1, 1, true); return false; });
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